BIG AND ANGRY! ODILE sat right on us.
Odile’s tracking path up the Baja
HISTORIC STORM RIPS INTO BAJA
La Paz – Las Arenas Fishing Report for Week of Sept 14-21
What a week!
I could be writing for many many pages over what has happened since our last fishing report a week ago, but let me try to summarize everything. You can surely look up alot of this (especially photos and video online by googling it!) but since I’m writing this and we do not have much electricity and only sporadic and very slow internet, I have to be brief before I lose the signal again. Most of the La Paz photos are mine. Others from friends and clients. Others taken from the internet with appreciation and apologies in order to tell the story.
WHAT HAPPENED:
- A bit more than a week ago ODILE appeared on our weather radars with some trepidation. It gathered speed and power, but like more than a dozen storms before it, the weather models showed it coming our way then glancing out to see giving us maybe some a bit of rain and wind. We were all relieved. The week before, Hurricane Norbert had come at us and didn’t do much other than keep our boats off the water for two days. No harm to anyone or to property.
- Last Saturday night, ODILE did something even the experts didn’t expect. It turned rapidly back right into Baja. Predictions had it anywhere from a Category 2 to Category 5 Hurricane (5 being the strongest). Hurricane Sandy that hit the East Coast last year was a 3.
- Being that this was a 4 day holiday weekend, everyone was ready to party. No one paying much attention to the weather and gearing up for the huge Independence Day Festivities.
- We watch the weather daily and warned as many as we could and geared up for it. Most in La Paz thought it would be “just another strong storm.” We knew differently. We hunkered down and advised our clients to do the same.
- Around midnight it slammed into La Paz. Hurricane ODILE ripped in with 110-140 mph winds. Turned into the strongest hurricane in Baja history.
Even after it has passed, 30-40 mph winds continued to hit La Paz the morning after.
WHAT IT WAS LIKE
- It was like being inside a vacuum cleaner full blast with giant trains blasting through. Tree branches shattered. Entire trees pulled up by the roots came crashing down. Furniture blew. Glass breaking everywhere. Our ceiling collapses. Roofs lifted off. Cement walls knocked over.
- Power lines falling. Paint peeled off walls. Bark completely stripped off trees. Telephone pole and power poles snapped in half or at ground level. Rain and wind both coming in sheets. Sound so loud you can’t talk or hear a yell. Vehicles tipped over. Beach palapas tossed topsy turvy in the air like the little umbrellas in tropical drinks.
- Statues knocked off pedestals. Signs ripped off buildings. Metal sreet light poles, not just broken, but twisted like licorice until they snapped. Rocks and boulders tumbling from hillsides. Boats blown off their anchor and moorings. Many sunk. Many blown aground across the bay. Boats in yards knocked over like tenpins. Entire sides of high buildings stripped off a cat had clawed them.
AFTERMATH
The storm came through quickly that literally, it was over fast. By the next morning, everyone was out and surveying the damage. Most were relieved. But that’s when it really got worse.
LA PAZ
- Lots or property damage. No water, power, cell, electricity, gasoline. Many many trees torn up by the roots. Debris everywhere. 30-40 boats in the marina sunk. Power lines criss-crossed across road. Power poles and trees snapped off and fallen across homes and crushing walls. Road blocked.
- Airport shut down.
- Several persons missing with their boats (later found deceased)
Many old trees were pulled up by their roots and were knocked or blown over.
Debris everywhere. Many trees and plants were completely denuded.
Beach palapa flipped upside down after it snapped and tossed 30 yards up the beach.
Phone lines and power poles askew
La Concha pool turned into a green murky pond of debris.
CABO SAN LUCAS
- Entire neighborhoods flatted and destroyed
- New Airport destroyed
- Widespread destruction in hotels and homes
- Estimated 30,000 tourists stranded with no flights
- Estimated 25,000 people in shelters
Entire neighborhoods in Cabo were destroyed.
Many lost everything. Many of those didn’t have much to begin with.
The remains of Cabo Airport.
IN THE PAST WEEK SINCE HURRICANE
LA PAZ
- Many areas still without water or power, but slowly coming back. Most of the hotels have power and water by day 4.
- Cell phone reception in many areas returned by day 3
- Gasoline shortages critical for a few days with rationing or running out, especially as folks from Cabo San Lucas migrated up and started to purchase gas. Same with food shortages. Many of the larger markets and stores are empty, but getting better after 1 week as supplies come in.
- Some looting reported, but has been controlled
- Boats in the marina or those that have been abandoned and grounded have been looted.
- Airport semi-open after being closed for a few days. There are some commercial flights starting next week. Volaris Airlines sent down several empty planes to help with evacuations.
- It took us 5 days to evacuate all of our clients through the La Paz Airport and through the La Paz Ferryboat taking. Many took another 2-4 days to finally get home to the U.S. Some were stuck in airports for several days sleeping on floors waiting to get flights.
- It looked like Hurricane Polo was going to kick us again this weekend, but it tempered down to a tropical storm and now threatens only some rain this weekend and during the week. GRACIAS A DIOS! But, it’s like dog-piling on a guy with two broken legs.
- Town is packed with refugees and escapees from Cabo San Lucas trying to get away or just looking for a roof and water or here trying to purchase gas and food or supplies. There are ZERO hotel rooms available at night. Even the littlest hole-in-the-wall place is booked with people waiting to get in. Even if the hotel does not have full water and power, people are happy to be away from Cabo.
- As La Paz is the capital of the State of Baja Sur and the seat of government, crews have been working around the clock and hundreds of techs from mainland Mexico along with equipment have been brought over to get electricity and communications back on the grid.
Destruction in downtown La Paz
The roof of one downtown Pemex gas station in La Paz came crashing down.
The La Paz waterfront malecon soaked and sloshed
CABO SAN LUCAS
- By everyone’s account, this is going to take a long time to re-build.
- Thousands of troops and police have been brought in to get control.
- It has been described as a war zone. Destruction is everywhere.
- Looting has been widespread. All the big stores have been emptied.
- Gangs roaming the streets with weapons and machetes have been reported
- Citizen groups have banded together to protect their neighborhoods and homes and using rocks, re-bar and bricks to defend themselves against attacking gangs.
- Much gunfire heard at night
- False roadblocks have been reported in order to hi-jack cars
- The airport has two runways open for military, government and humanitarian flights to help with lack of food, water and medicine. 80% of the city still has no power or phones.
- Estimates that half of the 30,000 stranded tourists have now been evacuated a week after the hurricane.
- The U.S. State Department has recommended that folks get to their nearest Cabo or La Paz Airport and special flights are being used to evacuate, but expect long waits.
- Many many people driving to La Paz to escape. Roads are damaged, but passable. Roads north of La Paz up to the U.S. are down in some places due to flooding and damage, and expect waits, but it’s usable most of the time. Work going on constantly. All of those communities…El Rosario, Constitucion, Loreto, Mulege, etc. all sustained their own damage from ODILE.
- They say that by this week some airlines like Alaska will be running flights in and out’ve Cabo San Lucas.
Looting in Cabo San Lucas. Diapers and cereal for the kids. Cup o Noodle for Mom and Dad. But Captain Morgan too?
It got ugly during the looting
What’s left of Cabo Walmart
TAILHUNTER
We had some REALLY GREAT FISHING going on before the hurricane! Dangit, the storm spoiled it all. When the storm hit, we had several dozen folks here and the aftermath was the most difficult. Many of our folks never got to fish at all. However, thankfully, no one was hurt and our biggest situation was (1) Getting the home and evacuated safely and (2) While they were stuck here making them as comfortable as possible given no water…electricity…cell phones…and dwindling food.
Almost all of our folks were at La Concha Beach Resort thankfully so it made it easier than other times when we might have dozens of folks scattered among, 3, 4 or 5 locations. The folks and staff at La Concha were and continue to be magnificent. Much of the hotel was damaged. Of the more than 100 rooms only 20 did not sustain damage. Even 1 week after the storm, there is still no water or power fully established.
However, the hotel folks worked round the clock. Many of them sleeping at the hotel and working by candlelight or digging out rooms and grounds from debris, fallen trees, broken glass and shredded walls. A limited menu was served during special hours in the lobby since the restaurant glass was blown out but they really did a good job on the food.
Our drivers, Jorge and Esteban were freakin’ heroes. Despite their own problems at their own homes, they ferried our people to and from markets…to and from airports and the ferrys…at all hours at their OWN expense…just to help out and always doing it with a smile and good sense of humor even in the most stressful times even when their own families needed their presence. There was nothing they wouldn’t do.
Kudos also to our guests…who hung in there during a trying time with patience and good will and all the laughs possible under the circumstances. They were all stars. No one losing their cool. No one going “Ugly American.” No one blaming anyone, but rather helping each other and bonding and hanging tough. Thankfully, everyone got home or is on their way home. No one injured. No one hurt. I’m just sorry that their vacations took such a turn.
Tailhunter Restaurant is open. Our own staff kicked butt and cleaned up most of the damage and allowed us to open 3 days after the storm with a limited menu, but open when many others still were closed. Many of our “new friends” are from Cabo San Lucas and just relieved to be here and we’ve been sharing our phones and internet signals with them so they can reach out. For many, this is their first time in La Paz. We are still having trouble with ice and some food items, but each day it’s been a bit better.
As for the fishing…well…regretfully, we’ve had a load of cancellations understandably. We’re telling everyone who postpones that they will get 100% credit towards their new dates. We have had no banks open or available all week. Banks aren’t even answering their phones. Not even an ATM, so doing business has been problematic. But we’re still here and we’ll pull out’ve this. Losses have been huge, but could have been worse and there are so many others who have it much worse than us.
But, as for yesterday, we have been putting a few stranded folks on boats and there’s still dorado out there! We can actually see rooster fish breaking just off the beach outside the restaurant. So the fish are waiting! They haven’t been biting really well because the waters are really messed up, but if we don’t get any more turbulence, waters should clear up and fish will be back…we hope!
Will keep you as posted as we can signal and phone reception allowing. Thank you for all your good wishes. We’ve literally gotten hundreds of e-mails, phone messages and facebook messages and simply cannot answer them all.
IF YOU WANT TO HELP
Jill put together these links if you’d like to help and make donations:
La Paz Rises
https://www.facebook.com/pages/La-Paz-Rises/636793356437674
Links for donations and other info will be up and hopefully it can be of use as a clearing house for info.
FANLAP (Judy’s kids)
http://icf-xchange.org/donateonline/index.php?webkey=losninosdelapaz
Cruceros (search, rescue etc)
http://www.gofundme.com/en7dtw
Waves for Water
http://www.gofundme.com/en7dtw
Baja disaster relief fund (Mexican Red Cross/International Community Foundation)
http://icf-xchange.org/donateonline/?webkey=bajadisasterrelief
God bless. That’s our story
Jonathan and Jilly
Jonathan Roldan’s
Tailhunter International
Website:
www.tailhunter-international.com
Mexico Office: Tailhunter International, 755 Paseo Obregon, La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico
U.S. Mailing Address: Tailhunter International, 8030 La Mesa Blvd. #178, La Mesa CA 91942
Phones:
from USA : 626-638-3383
from Mexico: 044-612-14-17863
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Tailhunter Weekly Fishing Report: https://fishreport.jonathanroldan.com/
Tailhunter YouTube Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/pangapirate
“When your life finally flashes before your eyes, you will have only moments to regret all the things in life you never had the courage to try.”
Tailhunter Fish Report 